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Turbo FIRE Engines
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General Info Note: This info is only correct for Fiat FIRE engines. Turbo Parts List -Turbo - Any small turbo can be used if sized for the engine. These were some of the tried units (I've now revised the list to include most turbos that should fit) T3 is too big for a 999cc. Needs high rpm, head work, etc (has a very high potential for a high rev engine but is really laggy)
Note: You need to make sure the turbo will physically fit in the space available. When I say no lag it means boost should start under 2000rpm.
Above is a Garrett GT12, a Garrett GT15 and a hot turbo.
Horsepower This is a Garrett fitment guide, it provides displacement vs. horsepower
MCC Smart turbo, see note below. Note: I have recently learned from a user on Fiat Forum that the Garrett GT12 turbos used on the MCC Smart have the exhaust manifold integrated into the exhaust housing on the turbo, it's best to stay away from these turbos unless you are willing to modify them to fit, in my opinion it may be difficult and expensive to modify unless you find an extra exhaust housing to swap on to it. (Thanks arc, this is your pic) -Wastegate- If the turbo you pick does not have one built in then you will need an external wastegate, all this does is vent excess exhaust around the turbo to prevent it from spinning any faster then is required for the boost you want. In other words this is a way to regulate the max boost you will run, if properly set, this will prevent you from overboosting the engine and destroying it in the process. -Intercooler - Any intercooler that fits can be used, some options that have been tried were:
Note: The installation does not need to be front mount, some people are trying to install top mount ICs off a Subaru on the a Panda. This setup becomes more complicated because it needs a rather large hood scoop but it allows a larger rad to be used. -Intake piping- PVC pipe has been used lately, it works great and is cheap. I've always used stainless steel piping with silicone hose for the joints, this can be expensive though. -Air Filter- Any filter can be used, there is one person using the stock airbox in a Punto 55 with some success. -Headgasket- There are very few options for this that I know of:
(Some people claim a double gasket causes a step in the combustion chamber that will eventually burn the gasket, other's claim it works fine. Guess we just have to wait and see!!) Note: Aftermarket gaskets can be used as long as they are the same thickness of more then the original. This is to prevent the compression ratio from increasing which would most likely cause detonation. Most gaskets are around 1.9mm thick -Pistons- Stock pistons have been tested to 10psi with no problems (no detonation problems were detected at this boost, you may have them though). About 7 psi is safe. Low compression forged pistons should be used for high boost. There is also the option of skimming the stock pistons 2.5mm to achieve a CR of 7.5:1 , this can be used for moderate boost. -Adjustable cam gear- If you know what this is for then you know if you need one or not. If you don't know what it's for the read this page. -Cam Belt- The stock belt is ok for most applications including double headgasket. -Exhaust Manifold- This can be the stock manifold with an adapter or modified, or you can use a custom manifold. A stock manifold becomes restrictive at high RPM even if modified and the stock downpipe can't be used.. -O2 Sensor- Most fuel injected cars already have this on, carb cars may use one for preliminary tuning. This is not needed but great at getting the afr right. Most cars have narrow band O2 sensors, these are only good -Oil Pan- The stock oil pan is good but may need internal baffles if used in a track environment. It will need to be modified to accommodate the oil drain from the turbo. -Radiator- Any rad that can be made to fit can be used, people have been using mostly VW rads for their cheap price. I've used an uprated Uno Turbo aluminum rad without problems. You could use a rad off a larger engine (does not include 1.1/1.2 as those use a similar unit). You may get away with using the stock rad if the engine is not pushed very often -Blow-Off-Valve (BOV)- It's better to use one to protect the turbo, Bosh sell some cheap/quiet ones (Bosh 1). This is basically a pressure release valve and such can be used. Pressure release valves can be found in welding shops or compressed air suppliers. The best bovs are the piston ones (aka Type 1). -Adapter Plate- Only needed if using a stock exhaust manifold. (the oil filter will be a pain to get off and the stock downpipe can't be used because it won't fit) -Downpipe- The stock downpipe can be used with a modified/custom manifold. It flows good at low boost but becomes restrictive at around 10psi of boost. It will actually prevent the turbo from spinning any faster, we couldn't boost over 11psi with this method while the custom manifold allowed the same turbo to reach 15psi with no other mods. -Exhaust- The stock exhaust can be used but is very restrictive, a minimum of 2.25" diameter should be used. Do not go over 3" as this will cause a loss of low end torque and driving becomes difficult. -Charge Piping- PVC pipe has been used up to 10psi without problems, it does start to heat up at higher pressures. PVC starts to distort at 18psi from the heat. -Fuel Pump- There are lots of options here including the stock pump on EFI cars. -Fuel Pressure Gauge- Any fuel gauge that can measure over the max pressure you are using can be used. This is only needed for tuning. -Carburetor- The best option is EFI. The next best is a carb off a turbo car because it'll already be prepared to accept boost. The last option is the stock carb or aftermarket. (if you take the last option be warned that it's extremely complicated to get the fueling OK, it'll never be perfect because it'll always have flat spots but it will run.) -Cylinder Head- The stock head is fine, a ported/flowed is much better. The best so far is the 1108/1242 head because it has bigger valves and already has bigger ports. It'll take a lot of money to get a 999cc head to flow the same as a stock 1.1/1.2 head so take a hint. (I don't think a stock 999cc head can flow enough air to produce 200hp, a 1.1/1.2 head should be able to if it's ported/flowed) -Oil Cooler- Like the rad, anything you can fit will work. In colder climates a thermostat may need to be fitted to keep the oil warm. -Camshaft- Most cams can be used in turbo apps. Just remember the more power the engine produces in NA form the more it will produce once it's turbo. Most wild cams don't work with turbos because the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time (called overlap). -Fuel Pressure Regulator- This is a boost referenced 1:1 step up regulator. Some fuel injected cars already have one. If it's a fuel injected car you'll need a 12:1 rising rate regulator. -Boost Gauge- This is a must as it will prevent YOU from blowing your engine with too much boost. -Air/Fuel Gauge- Only needed for tuning if you have one. an O2 sensor can be used with a voltmeter to achieve similar results. -Transmission- The stock transmission can take 150hp for brief periods (you never drive at WOT all the time do you!!), the problem that caused my trannies to brake was wheel hop (once it was the differential, twice the tranny), replaced all bushings with urethane bushings and engine mounts and the problem is gone. -Transmission oil cooler-An oil cooler and a scavenging pump was added to the tranny (using the purge and filler screws) to help cool the tranny in an attempt to increase life at the track. I would still use the tranny cooler as it helped keep the tranny much cooler and also increased fluid capacity to 5.5litres. This is not required but helpful for track use or if you abuse the tranny. DO NOT POWER SHIFT/SPEED SHIFT THE EARLIER TRANNIES BECAUSE THEY WILL BREAK. (Guess how we figured that one out!!!)
Most of the parts listed have been or are being tested at the moment unless otherwise stated.
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