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Turbo FIRE Engines
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Fiat Panda 999cc FIRE turbo (carb)
History This was my first Fiat, it was a red 1988 Fiat Panda 750CL and it cost me 150euros on May 28 2004. The previous owner had blown the original engine and simply replaced it with a 999cc fire off a later 127 with the original 4-speed tranny. When I acquired the car it had 154000km on the clock and about 80000km on the engine, the front driver's side wheel arch was a mess (wheel had jumped off at 80km/h because of loose bolts) it had some rust that could be seen (and much more when I stripped it) and the clutch was slipping real badly. The original 127 rims it sported had to be removed because the one that came off was unrepairable and were replaced with steel rims (I'm still looking for anyone with a spare rim they want to sell) also the original tires had no tread left. After the first few days of driving the car on the dirt roads around here I realized the car really lacked power, being the turbo fanatic that I am, I started my quest for a way to turbo the panda. The first option I found was the VanAken conversion for Cinqs since it was for an 1108cc fire it would fit fine but the cost was simply prohibitive for a 50bhp gain, my next option was to create something from scratch. The whole process started with a full engine rebuild using new parts (no reman. stuff):
here's the list of parts I used: After lots of emails, phone calls and some threats I have decided it might be
of my best interest to post a parts list for the Panda turbo conversion (this
sentence is a left over from my old site, so you can see how much people have
bugged me for this info Additions are in bold, green are my comments if I was doing it again, all parts not mentioned are stock Panda Turbo Parts List -Turbo (IHI RHF3)- factory limited to 7psi (wastegate has been modded to 6psi to be safe) power starts at 1800rpm and lasts all the way to my 6700rpm redline, the turbo was later replaced by a Garrett GT1544s as the RHF3 would peak at 4000rpm and the GT15 peaks at 5300rpm(it's also cheaper) boost was raised to 9psi. The IHI has no boost lag but the garrett has a higher potential with some lag (power starts at 2400rpm), so the GT15 for all out power and the RHF3 for all around drivability and 1/4mile track -Intercooler (Mitsubishi Starion stock IC)-after initial testing I realized an intercooler would be necessary to ensure longer engine life at high boost, this unit was changed for a higher flowing Eagle Talon IC to help keep the boost up, there was no noticeable drop in boost with this cooler. The Talon intercooler is a much better bargain as it can be had used for little and flows enough for this engine/turbo combo, I would use a Spearco unit if it could be found cheap as it cools much better (a supra IC would also make a good second choice if you could find a mounting place), the DSM Eclipse intercooler is a smaller side mount unit but flows better then the DSM Starion FMIC. -Intake piping-all intake piping was fabricated out of thin walled stainless pipe(3" OD) so it's all custom work here, it was slightly modified to acquire cool outside air instead of the intake scoop we previously used. Silicone hoses can be used before the turbo as the price of stainless steel can get steep -Air Filter-I used a K&N cone filter I had laying around from my Calibra with an adapter to fit the 3" intake piping (filter is about 2 1/4"ID). This filter is good but there are units better suited for this application that are much cheaper, just make sure the filter is the same size as the intake piping never bigger as this would cause a loss of airflow because of the step created. -Headgasket-after a few blown gaskets a friend made a custom one that seems to be holding for now, by making the gasket thicker it also lowers the compression to around 8:1 to withstand higher boost, after replacing the pistons the stock gasket was fitted to ensure correct CR. The stock gasket is good enough if installed properly. For low boost the stock pistons and gasket should be good as proven by my new project -Pistons- After raising the boost I replaced the stock pistons with forged units meant for a 127, these lower the CR to 8.2:1. For low boost the stock pistons and gasket should be good as proven by my new project -Adjustable cam gear-this was necessary to get the timming correct because of the extra 1mm of height (thicker headgasket) I do not know it's make or what car it came out of, after removing the thicker headgasket the stock gear was used as this was considered unnecessary. If using a stock cam use one to adjust the torque curve otherwise the stock gear is good. -Cam Belt-the cam belt is a bit longer, it came off a 1108cc fire, stock belt was used after replacing the gasket. Not necessary if using a stock engine or low compression pistons -Exhaust Manifold-this is a modified stock manifold, when swapping the turbo I had a custom manifold made so I could easily replace the oil filter and use the stock exhaust. The custom manifold flowed much better then the old unit at high rpm but lost a bit of bottom end torque (it's not noticeable but the dyno shows it). -O2 Sensor-(aka Lambda) this was fitted to the manifold with the intention of adding a MPI system, it was used for tuning purposes and left alone afterwards, this was removed when I installed a downpipe, since I had a WBO2 this no longer served a purpose. -Oil Pan-the stock oil pan was modified to allow for the turbo oil lines to drain into it, the capacity was also increased by making it wider (to make sure there is enough cool oil to lube the engine and turbo), after making some experiments we realized the stock pan was adequate but since we already had this one it was kept. The modified is a better choice as it gives more clearance for the bigger exhaust, the stock unit could be used but the exhaust could hit the ground at speed bumps (I'm referring to a larger bore exhaust obviously). -Radiator-the rad is an uprated unit meant for an Uno turbo, the coolant line has a T-connector installed to supply coolant to the turbo (the connector has a one way valve built in to prevent back-flow), after I removed the heating system the lines were run directly to the turbo, this was done for space reasons and obviously not to save weight!! This rad was an excellent choice and I would use it again, the engine has never overheated once since it was built. -Blow-Off-Valve (BOV)-this is a stock Mazda MX6 BOV, it opens at around 7psi and is fairly quiet, this valve was converted to a recirculation valve since it did not make any cool sound no one missed it. Since I converted the valve shift times have improved. -Adapter Plate-the turbo to manifold adapter plate was made out of 3/4" thick steel, with the custom manifold this was no longer used. -Downpipe-this was made out of 2.5" stainless tubing to mate to the exhaust, I have since added a cat so a new downpipe was created without the O2 bung. I would use a cat has it allowed the modified engine to pass emissions with only 0.5%CO reading (3% is the max allowed for this engine). -Exhaust-this is a custom 2.5" dual tip exhaust made by a friend, it is all stainless steel and makes a deep sound( not to loud when revved either), the backbox is a Remus unit with dual chromed tips. This exhaust sounds perfect and I wouldn't trade it for anything else. -Charge Piping-all charge piping was taken from a Mazda MX6 and modified to fit using stainless piping. Custom piping would look nicer then this and be easier to install but it would cost a bit more. -Fuel Pump-this is a Walbro (255LPH/45psi max) fuel pump, the pressure is set at 20psi, this pump was seen to be overrated for this task so an E2000 was used instead, anything that can flow 120LPH/20PSI can be used (stock mechanical pump flows 60LPH/0.3bar at 4000rpm)and is not enough. I would still use an electric pump but I've learned that the stock pump can be used if boost referenced (there is a port on the side but needs a nipple) for low boost applications. -Fuel Pressure Gauge-this is a B&M gauge I had laying around, reads 0 to 50psi and is located under the hood (I'm making preparations to place it somewhere more visible during operation), it was actually removed once testing was complete -Carburetor-this is the stock weber carb that has been rejected and sealed by my dads friend (make sure you replace the float if using high boost). It was intended to be replaced by an MPI system later on (I have since sold this engine and started another build), I have since been told and have confirmed that a stock carb in good condition will hold 20psi without leaks, the only sealing used was for the throttle shafts and float replacement. A stock carb can be used if it's rejected, another option is a carb for the Y10 turbo (Weber 30/32 dtml), Renault 5 turbo or you could use any other carb and box it (make sure it suits the engine). Multiple carbs are an option if used in a common pressure box. (problem with boxed carbs is the trouble caused while adjusting, they're in a sealed box!!) -Cylinder Head-after blowing the headgasket the first time I had the head skimmed and port-matched, it also has a 4X4 cam installed so it has a little more grunt, the engine volumetric efficiency was increased from the stock 62% to about 74% with just the port matching, I debated whether or not to flow the head but decided it was good enough. A flowed head would have a much higher potential but would also rise the cost, another option is to use the head off a 1242cc 8V which flows much better and has bigger ports. -Oil Cooler-this was an oil cooler I found at the scrappy (it was off a Volvo), I used it because the oil was getting a bit hot when running at the track, this oil cooler surpassed my expectations as the oil temperature dropped over 20C over a period of one hour of track time (this was tested by covering the cooler and then running again with the cooler uncovered). This cooler proved sufficient but any cooler can be used. -Camshaft-this is the same one that is found in a Panda 4X4, another camshaft could be used to provide more low end torque and better flow at high revs (we were stuck as we could only adjust the timming, and it had to be retarded up top to prevent detonation). we eventually ran stock timming without any sign of detonation, but the water injection was always on standby. -Fuel Pressure Regulator-this is a Mallory boost sensitive regulator (it adds 1lb of pressure for every 1psi of boost) another unit was originally used but could not compensate properly (the problem was traced to a clogged reference port on the intake), this unit is a bit expensive for what it does and could be replaced with much cheaper 1:1 units as long as they have a intake reference (aka boost reference) -Boost Gauge-this is a cheap Autometer boost gauge. This should be included with any setup because it's one of the best ways to know the condition of the turbo. -Air/Fuel Gauge-this is also an Autometer unit on a 3 gauge cluster, using a DYI-wb sensor, currently at 13:1 AFR. This is not required but makes it really easy to tune the carb (a CO meter is much cheaper and a good alternative specially if it can also measure nox) -Transmission-The stock transmission can take 150hp for brief periods (you never drive at WOT all the time do you!!), the problem that caused my trannies to brake was wheel hop (once it was the differential, twice the tranny), replaced all bushings with urethane bushings and engine mounts and the problem is gone. I still don't know whether the Uno turbo tranny would fit as that would be a great option. I don't know how long the stock tranny can take 3 times it's normal power rating. -Transmission oil cooler-An oil cooler and a scavenging pump was added to the tranny (using the purge and filler screws) to help cool the tranny in an attempt to increase life at the track. I would still use the tranny cooler as it helped keep the tranny much cooler and also increased fluid capacity to 5.5litres. Do remember I'm not gaining anything by posting this , just so others may be interested in undertaking a similar project. If I missed anything please let me know either pm or email. I have now declared project Panda Turbo finished. (power was at 158whp/5200rpm on pump g100oct and 172whp/5250 on 110oct in February 2005 or point of sale) When I sold the engine it had 3136km since the rebuild in Sept. 2004, those km were driven by friends of mine as I still don't have a Portuguese driver's license and my Canadian one won't allow me to have insurance on a car (I can drive insured cars but cannot insure my own!!) This Project proved to be difficult to tune but demonstrated the possibilities that this engine is capable of. From this point down the engine is no longer mine.
The engine is now owned by Gil (Boosted45) and is installed on a mk2 Uno 45 Update: The modified turbo engine has clocked 4317km as of today without being touched yet, most of those kms are acquired at the track and demo runs while it was still mine. There are some issues beginning to surface because of the continued track use on race gas, this engine has been severely abused and neglected since I sold it, I really don't think it'll survive to 5kkm. Just last week he had it over to check for a strange sound on boost. I found it to have the oil level so low it didn't touch the dipstick, one of the oil cooler hoses had taken a hit and was leaking, the damage was probably caused by a curb or sidewalk as the front bumper was cracked. Since I sold the engine it has had these modifications done to it: I sold the complete engine with intercooler, rad and tranny. The only thing I did not sell was the exhaust. He gave me 900euros for everything, I wouldn't have sold it otherwise, I still think he's nuts. To this day he still claims he got a great deal on it, by comparing a GSR CS4A that costs 710pounds and makes half the hp/torque. I would like to see a few dyno sheets from people who have those engines though. (That's why I don't make any claims and am reluctant to sell any "kits" as that would force me to deliver.) Valvetrain
These mods only allowed the engine to rev to 7300rpm(it will rev higher!!) and provided only a 10hp gain over what I had achieved, reason being that the turbo loses efficiency to provide power at those revs. Now he's looking for a "new" turbo (T25), I honestly don't think the engine will survive long enough to get the new turbo, I've already declined to even touch the engine for fear that'll self destruct!! (It's producing way more hp then I built the bottom end to accommodate, remember that I built this engine with the intention of getting 100-120hp he'll be doubling this mark soon at this rate. Intake/Fuel system
Ignition
Cooling System
The exhaust is a straight through design by the same guy that built mine, except his produces a lot more noise because he lacks the high flow cat I have and is using a Devil muffler instead. Update: He has admitted to spending a fortune on these mods (I have the real numbers but posting them would scare most people), the car is now running at 16psi of boost on the reman. T25. After installation the car ran a 180hp/6000rpm but the boost only begins at 3400rpm (this is on pump gas, BP Ultimate 100oct). Now we must wait and see how long the engine will last at this power level. I must admit the car is extremely quick, he hasn't track tested it yet but yesterday he had a short race against a modded Punto GT (also his car) and he actually pulled in second off the line and still winning by a margin of two car lenghts. He will also be converting his engine over to FI like mine. March 2005 After showing a drop in hp on the dyno we noticed a drop in compression on all cylinders and a slipping clutch. Current mileage is at 5200km, I already knew the Cinq clutch wouldn't hold this power very long (I'm amazed it lasted 5k!!). The piston ring wear was caused by the lack of oil the engine was subjected to earlier on (he's been taking extremely good care now!!), now it's rebuild time. Since the engine will be rebuilt we decide to install:
Everything else was within specks and was left on, no wear was noticed on any other part other then piston rings (remember that these were standard Fiat piston rings!!). This was not necessary to run the current power level (only piston rings needed replacing) but is essential to achieve the 200hp level. The engine is now reassembled (we're finishing as I type this) and updates will come soon. He already plans to raise his boost and install a LSD. April 2005 After contemplating for a while he decided to ditch the carb and finally go EFI (several tuning issues after the rebuild prevented the engine from going over 1500rpm without going lean. He's now acquiring his parts and awaiting for his MS unit to come from the US. He's got no problems leaving the engine on a stand since he's got a Punto GT as a daily driver. This also allows me to get some pics of the engine in it's present form. June 2005 After lots of research on what EFI system to use we have settled on Megasquirt'n'Spark-Extra, details will be up when we begin the conversion. This Project proved to be difficult to tune but demonstrated the possibilities that this engine is capable of. This project is now continuing with updates as we move along, anyone else who thinks they have a better way to do something on this version send me an email and I'll update the page to pass it on.
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